Iberian Tour Wash-up

I came up to Liverpool today and after the rugby was finished I headed up to Woolton to check out Jan's and my favourite places from when we lived in Quarry Street. That was a salutary lesson, nothing stays the same, you cannot go back.



I went on my Spanish odyssey to try to get my head straight, expecting to come back with everything sorted in my mind, but apart from resolving some minor admin matters I have really only decided what I am not going to do. I am taking that as a positive, at least I don't have to worry about all those things any more, so I will not be buying a house in Spain, Portugal or France, I will not be doing extended solo touring and Jan's ashes are not going to be scattered in all the locations that were on her bucket list, she and I will go and visit them together.

After re-reading the above I realise that I have made some decisions.
1. Carpe Diem
2. Always say yes
3. My anthem now is 'Take it to the Limit' 

If you want to join in or suggest something I should take part in please go for it.

Miscellaneous Ramblings

The cost of fuel in Spain and Portugal is about 80% what it is in the UK, but the best thing is that there is no difference in price on the motorways, so you are not getting ripped off. When will motorway services in the UK wake up to the fact that they are pricing themselves out of the market, most people now only stop to use the toilets and then drive on.

A strange vehicle can be seen over here mainly in the towns, it looks like a two-seater Trabant and seems to kick out just as much pollution. I have tried to identify them, they have the name Aixam and are apparently made in France  and they are so low powered that they can be driven without a licence in Spain. They also seem to be classed as motorcycles even though they have four wheels because they have the same distinctive registration plates the scooters and bikes have. They probably only cost about 17/6d to buy but would cost about £1000.00 a year to tax in the UK because of the amount of muck they chuck out.

One thing I forgot to share was, when I was on the good ship African Queen, the on-board guide kept talking about the varied marine life in the national park but she kept referring to the fish and shellfish not as marine life but as seafood, I did look around but no one else seemed to notice.

A tip for all you budding continental travellers - if you like Camembert buy it from your nearest Tesco or Lidl, DO NOT buy it three days before you are due to arrive home (even if you pack it in a sealed container inside a coolbag) because your car will end up smelling like a warthog died in it last year.

Edith's Day Out

I stayed in a truck drivers Ibis hotel last night in Agen, it was very clean and quiet until 04.30 when all the drivers got up started up their trucks and convoyed down the road to beat the rush hour, still it meant a quiet coffee and croissants for me.
Edith had a wonderful time today meandering from Agen through Bergerac, Perigueux, Angouleme and Poitiers to Angers. I think she likes being an exotic right hand drive, while all her sisters are common left hand drive. We had good weather cold but sunny.
We particularly liked the Dordogne and Perigord, I think because it reminded me of the times Jan and I spent there, I felt very close to her today so we celebrated tonight in a Punjabi restaurant with Jan's favourites - Onion Bahgee and Chicken Biriani.
The wine loading is now complete, I just have to locate the cheese, sausage etc.

Thank you for reading all my ramblings, Edith, Harry, Marmalade and myself should be back in Gwytherin on Sunday. This is not the end of Movingon, we will be back.

Over The Pyrenees.

Last night's car park, space was too tight for ramps so you had to use the lift - good job the mirrors fold in.

On a recommendation from Ian, I did not go around the Pyrenees but right through the middle of them, I took the direct route from Zaragoza to Pau and the views after coming over the foothills were stunning, (thanks Bill you were right for once). There were loads of lovely photo opportunities especially waterfalls and rainbows but they never translate well on a photograph, so get your arses in gear and go and have a look yourselves. There was a huge change between Spain and France, Spain was all blue skies and arid landscape, France was 10 degrees colder and more like Wales with low cloud and rain but once we were away from all the closed ski resorts and Pau (the in-breeding centre of France - but they do have a rugby team) all was well with the world, I stopped and had a meal that was non-offal and not fried and it even had vegetables. Yahoo! The next few days will be a race to Le Havre and the ferry, I have got to be in the UK to watch England v New Zealand on Saturday afternoon, you just know the match will not be shown in any French bars.

A traffic jam in Laruns, I told you it was just like Wales

I will now add photos to the previous blogs.

Heading North

A long drive today, 450 miles from Galera to Zaragoza. I left Galera with brilliant blue skies, I am now wearing a fleece lined coat! What a revelation Zaragoza has been, it is a busy, buzzing city with lots of interesting sites and history, I walked around the city for nearly four hours and that wasn't only because I got lost again. They have a massive cathedral, beautiful buildings housing museums and galleries, Roman ruins, the River Ebro with pretty bridges and no end of pavement cafés for people watching. There is even a theatre which has a wide choice of shows, from drama to ballet and opera. Well worth a long weekend if not a full week visit.

Zaragosa's  Eye

Zaragoza Catherdal, 'kin huge

Detail from a panel outside the cathedral

The huge Pilar square (Plaza del Pilar)

Andalusian Troglodytes.

I met up with Ian and Monique on Sunday, they live in a beautiful three bedroom cave in a small village near Galera. We haven't met up for years, since we both left the army but it felt like only yesterday, we got on so well. They put me up in my own guest suite in their amazing house and showed me the local area (bars). Ian took me on a 2 hour hike yesterday but we finished in a small village with a choice of hostelries. It was a great break and such a contrast to the previous week which I spent amongst the tourists on the coast, I thoroughly recommend getting away from the Costas, not only do you meet real people and see real Spain but the food is 400% better and half the price.

Ian and Monique's front door, not a hint of a three bedroom, three bathroom residence hiding behind those doors.

The lounge

Dining room

My guest suite, completely underground.

Whitey From Blighty

I don't know if I am staying in a high risk area but I have to use four different keys to get from the street into the front door of my apartment, and I laughed when Mike double locked his apartment door!
I have just been for a long walk along the beach to try to justify my sitting with a beer in my hand this afternoon watching rugby. The locals couldn't get their sunglasses on fast enough, nothing as white as me had been seen since the first British tourist landed here in the 1950s.
I am meeting up with Ian and Monique tomorrow and then I will be heading home, route and date of arrival not definite but it should be just after next weekend. I have started loading the car, so far just wine but as I get nearer home I think some fresher produce will be included. Any requests?

Torrevieja

Been here since Monday afternoon, two days chillin' then yesterday I went to Cartagena. I got there at 9am to make the most of the day and of course nothing happens except breakfast until 10 am but I maxed out on culture, two Roman sites, one Punic site and four museums. It is a lovely small city/port with lots of pedestrianised streets with cafés for people watching and some people who are well worth watching. I also saw the famous, loud paraqueetes. Today I went to the massive Friday market in torrevieja! well worth a visit. I was there for over two hours and I probably saw about half of it. Tomorrow it is more Autumn Internationals, good luck Wales.

No Comms

I am staying in a complex for a week with no WiFi, and with the temperature in the mid 20s I cannot find The enthusiasm to go looking for  wiFi cafés so I will save any thoughts I have for one big hit later.

What a Difference a Day Makes

What a great day, it hit 26C and I didn't have too far to drive so I annoyed everyone by being a tourist and driving slowly. After a lunch stop just by the tourist information in Los Alcazares, where there were six or seven places serving 'All Day Breakfast' one even called the Red Lion, I went from there to explore the Mar Menor an inland sea, it is a lovely place especially at this time of year, very quiet and not another English Breakfast in sight.  I plan to visit the Roman ruins tomorrow and the nature park on the outer banks of the Mar Menor. There is actually a gap in the outer banks, so you have to explore it from both ends, if this was the US there would be a bloody great bridge over the gap so the mighty automobile would have right of way. That's enough of that, I'm getting stroppy, it must be time for dinner.

The Long and Winding Road

I left Antequera with the plan of visiting the geological features of El Torcal and Garganta del Chorro, wrong again. It was a sunny Saturday and the whole of Spain was out with the same thoughts as me, El Torcal was so busy that the 3.5km road to the visitor centre was closed, not far to walk you may say but that is where the real walks begin, so I left there thinking that Garganta is more remote I will be OK there. The place was swarming with lycra-clad louts mostly being attended by all of Andalucia's emergency services after falling off their bicycles. I gave that up and headed for Nerja where I hoped to catch the England v Australia game (I know Emrys they were lucky, good luck next Saturday). After being stuck in a queue on the outskirts of the town for nearly an hour I thought I had better find a room for the night. Things did not improve and after visits to Frigiliana, Almunecar, Almeria and Nijar I finally found a room in San Jose. The season is well and truly over, I should have stayed with Fran and Mike and just gone to the pub.

The Tapas Experience.

Thank you to Fran and Mike for making me feel at home and for showing me their favourite haunts on my two day visit to Antequera, and also their valiant attempts to introduce me to the joys of Tapas. I really appreciate their efforts but I think that Tapas is just a Spanish 'cunning plan' to get rid of all the normally inedible stuff that is left over in restaurants. I mean Tapas consists of animal entrails, marine insects or squidgey marine invertebrates all disguised with various sauces and coatings, is that real food???? I think not. Talking of Spanish food, I like cheese and I like ham but these two items account for nearly 90% all snacks in this country. I am looking forward to my week self catering! Llys Onnen food with tasty salad and vegables.

The Angelotti, a bigger than life-sized figure is on the the top of the San Sebastian church bell-tower. He can be seen from all over the city.

Angelotti from my hotel bedroom window

Angelotti as seen from the gypsy quarter

More Jimena

What a restaurant last night, the owner doesn't have a menu, he sits down with you and asks what you would like to eat then he gives you what he thinks you should have. I ended up with a mushroom croquette starter and a pig cheeks stew with broccolli tagliattelli, washed down with a white Rioja. If you are ever in Jimena de la Frontera I recommend the experience.

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and then this morning I woke up to the sun shining through my window

I headed up to Antequera and met this couple, no it's not Morecambe and Wise, but Fran and Mike or rather Mikel and Packy as they are known locally.

Down the Costa de la Luz and onwards.

Last nights bodega crawl fizzled out, so much for the Spaniards being late diners, by the time I got down town, they were all going home but I did have a magical sirloin in an Argentinian restaurant where the starter was served with a large free fino sherry, after the Jarro of Argentinian wine and a large local brandy I did not really notice the two mile walk back to my hotel.
Today I started my further exploration of the Costa de la Luz and my impressions were:-

Cadiz,worth a day trip, park the car and go for a wander in the old town.
Conil de la Frontera, very busy little town with tiny streets, I couldn't find the beach.
Veja de la Fontera, better, up in the hills, stunning views, very helpful Tourismo as usual but lots to do worth a full day trip or even a couple of nights, again park the car up and go on foot.
La Barossa, empty beach but grotty resort.

Zahara, getting better, out of the way small with a huge empty beach, but pricey restaurants and bars.

Beach at Zahara

Cooling fans, if it gets too hot on the beach

Tarifa, stay away unless you want to hang out with surfers of one persuasion or another. No parking and a horrible one way system.

Jimena de la Fontera, tonight's accommodation, Casa Henrietta, a beautiful old property, fits in very well with all the Baby Boomers who are out here travelling.

Casa Henrietta 

My room

The view from my room, looking forward to the sunrise.

The roof terrace.

View from the roof terrace.

Tomorrow I am due to meet up with Fran and Mike in Antequera so there may be a missing blog.

Nature and Sherry

Last nights accommodation was in Le Pousada De Mengh on the outskirts of Sanlucar de Barrameda, it was an immaculately clean family run guest house with rooms at 20 euros per night, the only draw back was the dogs barked until dawn and then the cockerels took over. Today's visit to the Donana National Park was very touristy and curtailed due to lack of numbers, but it was an interesting trip up the Guadalquivir River in the good ship Real Fernando a steamer straight out of The African Queen.

I have been a good boy so far and not gone for an afternoon bodega crawl, I will start  later. I have no real plans for tomorrow on-wards, I'll just see where I end up.

Adeus Portugal, Hola Espagne

I had a great day yesterday exploring Cacela Velha and its neighbour Fontana, they have an inland beach connecting them and it was a peaceful pleasure to saunter along and watch the fishermen at work. I then went to Manta Rota and this is what I found, picture 1 looking west and picture 2 looking east.

I spoke to both other people on the beach and they did say hello, but you could tell that they resented me crowding their beach.

As I have said before, I got very confused with the Portuguese road system, they have toll roads 1. Viagem where you collect a ticket and pay when you come off 2. Electronica where the camera reads your number plate and you have to find a retailer who will sell you a toll card then register the card with the authorities by text, they come back with a text to say thank you, everything is hunky dorey but it isn't because 30 seconds later you get another text telling you that you have done it wrong and you waste hours and ££££s trying to sort it out. I gave up and stayed away from electronicas, unfortunately you only find out if they are toll roads and what kind as you turn onto the slip road. My skills reversing the wrong way down motorways have improved by leaps and bounds. The third kind of road is a toll-free road. looking at the condition of a road gives you no idea if it is toll or not, the following photos are of a toll-free road obviously European funded 'cos as you can see it was hardly used. Other toll roads can be as rough as crossing a ploughed field.

Last night I couldn't handle another grill so I settled for Chicken Dansak with Pillau rice.

This morning up bright and early, still confused with all the time-zone changes and the clocks going back by different amounts, even the locals don't know what time it is. I was round at the bakery to collect breakfast and lunch, ham rolls 60c each, madness. By 1 pm (I think) I was pulling into Sanlucar de la Barrameda, a lovely small city with the usual tiny streets, I gave my Tomtom its head and Edith and I went zooming through tiny one-way streets all over the place, the real highlight came at school run time, as you can imagine tiny narrow streets and Mum's who's only concern is collecting little Pedro or Maria, cars are abandoned half on the pavement, in the middle of the road and even across junctions it kept me amused for at least half an hour.

Tomorrow I am going on a boat trip into the national park then I will be heading for Jerez to visit some bodegas. 

Still Shining

Tavira has been the perfect location for exploring the Eastern Algarve. The hotel I have been staying in - Hotel Portal Nova is clean, friendly and reasonable, four nights for 100 euros, I have been told that the food is also very good. Away from the riverside local restaurants are very good value, less than 20 euros for food, beer, wine, coffee and a brandy. I have one more beach to explore today then tomorrow it is back on the road again.
The other side of Tavira is not so pleasant! I did some shopping in Lidl at the back of the town and the place was full of loud arrogant expat Brits, but they do not seem to venture out of their ghetto.

The sun is shining

That's all for now folks, can't stay in when the sun is out.

It hasn't stopped raining all day, my Algarve best buy has been an umbrella. When Jan and I went on holiday we used to encounter all sorts of disasters, we flew out to Cyprus on the day after 9/11 only a 12 hour delay, we experienced a sandstorm from the Sahara in Gran Canaria, we had a hurricane and floods in Key West. I always blamed Jan for these experiences because they never happened to me before I met her but I take it all back, the Algarve is now experiencing the most severe rain in a generation in fact water is coming up through the drains and the TV is full of flood new.
I made the mistake of eating in a tourist oriented  restaurant last night, expensive and not very good, I've been to a local bakers for breakfast and a local bar for lunch, cheap, cheerful and a 100% improvement. Living and learning.

Down to the sun, or maybe not.

The road from Evora to the Algarve starts off flat, straight and boring, an excellent time to listen to good music and muse. After Mertola it gets more interesting with the chance to stop at the tiny town of Acoutim on the Guadiana River, another castle but the highlight for me was all the yachties wintering up there 40km from the sea! Next place south is the town of Castro Marim, a huge fortress with a massive forward artillery platform but if you don't want to go up for the views you won't be missing much.
I am now ensconced in a 4*(ha ha) hotel, it was raining when I arrived and all the guests were crowded into the foyer/lounge moaning about the weather and heads down over their mobile devices, I had an Adamson moment, put on the cosie and dived into the pool. It was cold but refreshing cold.
I am going to explore Tavira tonight and the rest of this coast over the next few days, I'll report back then.

Long Travellings

Leiria has a small old town with tiny streets too narrow for cars, the restaurants were very quiet so after exploring I headed back towards my hotel and as it started raining I went into a local churrasqueira. Chicken Piri Piri chips and two beers for just 7.50 euros I told the waiter to keep the change from a 10 euro note - JB would have been proud.

I had an adventurous time getting down to Estoril, Cascais and then eventually to tonights stop here in Evora, I shan't bore you with the details, suffice it to say if you mention anywhere between my start  and finish points I can confidently say 'I got lost there'.

Evora is another stunning town with all the old town crammed inside the town walls, lots to see including a Roman temple, lots of bars etc and all the expected squidgey little streets.

I had a couple of small beers last night, I just asked for a beer and was served with 0.2 litre glasses, so today when I went exploring in Evora I was offered small, medium or large so I thought medium sounds good, et voila. No standardisation over here, I'll have to put it to the EU, it's more important than straight bananas!

I have had enough driving so I have booked 4 nights in a hotel in Tavira in the Algarve from tomorrow night, I intend to investigate this seldom seen part of the Algarve East of Faro and then head into Spain on Monday. Less adventures but time to catch up on the admin.

Techno-nightmares

We had thunder and deluges last night, this morning it was still raining hard in fact the Welsh word pistillio fits exactly. I was so disillusioned that I just plugged the name of my next destination into Tomtom and drove off, the trouble was I couldn't differentiate between Viana and Valenca so thirty minutes late I found myself going north and nearly at the Spanish border. (keep me away from chart plotters and satnavs). Anyway I got fed up with the rain and headed south, I bypassed Porto, I will save the Douro river cruise for another trip. I detoured off and visited Conimbriga a huge Roman archaeological site, I just wish I had Keira with me to tell me what I was looking at. I am now in an Ibis hotel in Leiria and about to go out and explore, the rain has stopped Yipeeee.
I have been staying in cheap local hotels and they have been friendly but definitely only one star, not the sort of place Margaret or Fiona would think of laying their head. (I think Billy had stayed in the hotel I stayed in last night because the laminate in the bedroom was lifting, it had obviously had a good soaking at some time) Anyway I decided to try the Ibis, only 45 euros including breakfast and the place is immaculate. I've  already booked tomorrow nights Ibis in Evora.
Anyway enough for now I must go exploring. More soon.

Brittany ferries best kept secret

A la carte restraunt dish of the day £15.00 drivers lounge £5.50 including cheese and wine. Result.

Into Portugal

You tell me that it is persisting down in the UK at present, well you are not alone, it is precipitating here and has been for 24 hours but at least it is warm rain and it doesn't take long for my flip flops to dry.
I programmed my Satnav for country roads down to Portugal today and the route was brilliant, lots of quaint villages and far more to see than from the motorways, there was the odd industrial complex but hey it just makes the contrast stand out. We stopped first at Valenca do Minho on the Spanish/Portuguese border it is the site of a massive Napoleonic war fort which I loved  exploring, the whole of the interior is now full of shops, expensive restaurants  and cafes(it would make a good day out for a family as kids would enjoy the exploring and mums could go shopping). We then headed for the coast and drove down to Viana do Castelo - supposed to be a pleasant holiday resort but not for us. We then drove down the A and B roads to Ponte de Lima again excellent countryside and views, we arrived just in time to experience the biggest market I have ever seen - not planned, though it should have been it is mentioned in the guide book.
So a quiet night tonight, tomorrow's plan is to check out the Douro valley from Porto onwards but a lot of it will be weather dependant. 

Some people have asked about my travelling companions, Harry is a grey bear loaned to me by Charlie, Marmalade is a little bear given to me by Jan - he was my constant companion and kept me safe when I was out in Bosnia and Piaf the Peugeot (know as Edith) is the 407 estate I bought the day before I caught the ferry.
1 and 2 waiting to embark, 3 tucked up in their bunk.

Santiago de Compostela

A long drive today from Comillas to Santiago de Compostela via lots of the North coast, it all looks worth further investigation especially by boat.
I get some funny looks from the locals but I suppose a geriatric Englishman turning up in shorts and T shirt asking for an octopus butty and a Coke Zero in Spanglish is not what the locals are used to, it gets the conversation going though.
Having driven to or through a few large towns today and arriving at Santiago tonight it has made up my mind to steer well clear so it is only small towns and villages for me from now on, mind you I still want to pop in and have a look at Porto and Lisbon.
More when I recover.

Comillas

My first night in Spain, staying in a posada in Comillas, a beautiful little town on a hill above its own beach and fishing haven, the medieval town centre is all little shops bars and pavement cafes, not an English voice to be heard and only Spanish number plates on the cars, Jan would have loved it. This trip was planned before she became ill and I so really miss being able to talk with her about the experience. Talking of the experience I feel like an anthropologist in an undiscovered civilisation, this totally Spanish world is literally a world away from the Costas but it is good to sit back and watch a different society at work and play. I went out tonight with my phrase book and managed all the conversation in Spanish until I asked for ‘la cuenta’ and the waitress said ’14 euros 50 please’ Ah well I tried.

Breakfast at sea.

My first crossing of the Bay of Biscay, I don't know what all the fuss is about, slight swell, wind force 3 to 4, temperature 20C and sunshine,  perfect sailing weather. I don't think I could get used to cruising, no ropes to pull on or wheel to steer on this boat. Brittany Ferries - reasonable on board prices, good food and drinks, excellent shower,  quiet cabins but hard mattresses and extra firm pillows, otherwise no complaints. Well someone did not agree with my assessment of the sailing conditions, she was just sick all over the floor next to me so I will go and wash my shoes. Tata for now.

I am sailing.

The traumas are all behind me now. Today we are moving on, the moustache went down the sink on Wednesday but nobody noticed so maybe it was time it went. There are now four of us on this road trip, Marmalade, Harry, me and the new addition Piaf the Peugeot. We land tomorrow afternoon and we will be staying somewhere in Comillas then we are going to Santiago de Compostela after that who knows. We made the mistake of dining in the upper deck cafe tonight, we could have spent a much warmer time (both weather wise and food wise) for another couple of Euros in the salubrious a la carte restaurant on the main deck, another valuable lesson learnt. We called in to see Michael and Maria on the way to Portsmouth, Maria gave me some lovely home grown grapes but Michael gave us some gorgeous photos of Jan that I had never seen before, to take with us. Anyway enough waffling time for another Becks Fier, hopefully I will soon be able to sort out the no-send problem on my email account and learn how to attach photos to this story.

Anticipation

The 7 Ps are nearly finished, replacement car getting collected tomorrow, bags packed including the kitchen sink, then on Friday Harry and I will be on our way via a quick visit to Robert Michael, Maria and Diana.

What's going on? I've had 4 hits and I haven't said anything yet.

Day 1

My first blog - OK, its now set up so time for me to sort myself out, get packed and go.