The last day

Walmart early to exchange yet another suitcase, I am now on my third, then north up the Blue Ridge Parkway, first stop Craggy Gardens to climb Craggy Dome for a 360 view of North Carolina, it was a serene moment on my own at that height with the world spread out all around me, then a US aircraft flew over and waggled his wings, obviously time for me to go.

The next stop was Mount Mitchell, the highest peak east of the Mississippi River, I couldn't not go there but by the time I did it was mobbed by tourists and little black beetles, I asked a Ranger what kind of beetles they were and he said they were annoying black bugs, says it all really.

The view south from Craggy Dome

a  view from Mount Mitchell.

Ok I'm going

That was going to be as far north as I was going to go but I hadn't done much walking for the past two days so I went up to Crabtree Falls and it was an inspired decision, it is a beautiful setting and not too heavily visited because of the 3 mile circular trail to get there and back rated as strenuous in the guide books. As I have said before the photographs do not due justice to any of these sites you will have to come and look for yourselves.

Back in Asheville I made an amazing discovery, there is a Pinball Museum where you can play all day for  $10, I managed an hour before I could hear Jan telling me enough was enough. (Battle Square if you ever want to visit)

Tomorrow I start my journey home by driving down to Atalanta. It is probably good that it is all over because I am beginning to run out of superlatives describing my experiences, but it will be good to get away from the sound of Harleys and the smell of grease, so I am looking forward to home.

The Blue Ridge Parkway South

Another wonderful day. The Blue Ridge Parkway south of Asheville is a haven away from trucks, traffic lights and advertising hoardings. The speed limit is generally 45mph which is fine especially the further south you go and the road becomes a series of sweeping bends, ideal for the motorcyclist of which there were many enjoying themselves today unlike the poor boys on their Harley two-wheel tractors. They don't know what to do when they encounter bends, they were weaving, wallowing and wandering about the road at an average speed of 30mph.
The Parkway is the ideal jumping off point for many sights and attractions but I had covered some of those yesterday so I headed for the town of Cherokee to visit the Museum of the Cherokee Indian and what a two and a half hour eye-opener that was. I would have liked to visit the Oconaluftee Indian Village but I ran out of time, maybe next visit. See http://visitcherokeenc.com

The photos cannot do the scenery justice, you will have to come and look for yourselves.

This was taken from the highest point on the Parkway looking south

For all the Scousers out there.

Waterfalls and humming birds.

Today started at Sliding Rock Waterfall, when I heard the first yells as people slid down the rock into the pool I thought maybe I should stay dry but when a guy not too much older than me went down the slide I gave in and dressed in an FOCC t-shirt went for it. The rock isn't as smooth as suggested and the pool at the bottom was as cold as expected but it was a refreshing start to a long waterfall bagging day.

The next stop was Moore Cove Falls just a three quarter mile walk from the road.

The lovely thing about this fall was you can go behind it just like Last of the Mohicans which was filmed in this area along with The Hunger Games.

Just down the road stop three,

which as you can see being next to the road makes it very popular.

That was Pisgah National Forest where I called in at the Ranger Station and saw my first ever humming birds, I was captivated and spent at least 30 minutes just watching them.
 When I surfaced I had a chat with another Ranger and I followed his very accurate directions to the Du Pont State Forest and Hooker Falls.

Just a half mile from there, mostly uphill obviously was Triple Falls.

The next stop was a further mile uphill to High Falls the most impressive of the lot. I did have Bridal Veil Falls penciled in but my poor old legs had had enough so we staggered back to the car park for the trip back to Asheville and prep for the move in the morning.

Back to Asheville

Chimney rock from the car park.

Up at  sparrows this morning to escape the humidity of East Tennessee and got hit by two deluges on the way south, we bypassed Asheville and headed for Chimney Rock. We were blessed with a clear sunny day so lots of photos were taken.
There are 494 steps to the top of Chimey Rock if you don't take the girly elevator, I know I counted them all, and there are a similar number to the viewpoint at the top of the cliff, but all that effort is worth it. Minutes after we left we got hit by another deluge.
The highlight of the visit was seeing Hickory Nut Falls as seen in the film Last of the Mohicans, I always promised myself I would go and see it, so that is another ticked off the list.

Chimney rock from the cliff above.

 Chimney Rock from the car park and from the cliff above

The Devil's  Head

Hickory Nut Falls

ore  

Biltmore

We are staying for the next two nights in posh billets at the Biltmore Residences 'cos it's cheap during the week, we move into more familiar digs for Friday and Saturday.
Tomorrow we start bagging waterfalls starting with Sliding Rock Falls.

Intermittant internet access

I am making the most of this unexpected bout of access  --  Uh-Oh spoke too soon.

Bill Bryson is Mad.
I walked a few miles on the Appalachian Trail today, I have walked lots of places but this bore no resemblance to any trail or footpath I have ever been on and he walked it for miles carrying all his gear and even came back for a second helping. I take my hat off to him for perseverance but suggest his wife should book an appointment for him with the local head doctor.

The temperature at Clingman's Dome, the highest mountain in the Smokies was a cool 60F back in Pigeon Forge it was 88F and humid as hell. I am looking forward to getting back up into the mountains around Asheville tomorrow.

The great outdoors

I have been over here for a month and have walked at least 100 miles over old battlefield sites, towns, cities basically everywhere, in my trusty flip flops and shorts. I have now seen a sign telling me to wear sensible footwear long trousers etc and not go anywhere at dusk or dawn because of the risk from ticks, chiggers, black widow spiders, mosquitos, yellowjacket wasps, red ants, biting flies and biting ladybirds, poison oak, poison ivy, not to mention the various poisonous snakes and of course black bears.

Just to make Keira , Kay and Anthony happy I have been bitten a few times since they left me and yes I did come out in lumps but today I went on my first proper walk in the Smokey Mountains with I must admit with some trepidation. I saw a lot of birds and quite a few deer so I was getting quite complacent when I spotted what I thought was a dog on a converging course with me across a meadow, as we got closer I realised it was a bear with two cubs - the worst combination so I had been warned - she wasn't worried and after having a quick look at me she continued on her way, thank god. The photo was  taken about 50 metres away from her and her cubs, I erred on the side of caution.

I had a great day out but the humidity was horrible apparently more humid than the Amazon rain forest (according to the local news channel). 

Blue Swallowtails getting frisky at the oasis.

Blackpool in the mountains

Pigeon Forge was teeming with holidaymakers when I arrived here yesterday afternoon. I had this mental picture of a cute folksy village in the Smokey Mountains, boy was I wrong!
The Dixie Stampede was everything it promised, great show and far too much to eat, I finished off the night in a Hell's Angel bar.
Today I went to the biggest flea market in Tennessee, bought leather belts for $2 each and cowhide working gloves that fit like a glove!!!
The plan now is for two days walking in the Smokies before going to Asheville for my last four days in the good old USA.
More with pictures when I get a decent connection.

Last day in Nashville

The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum polarised my thinking on country music. I realised I really like the very early stuff and the more modern which brings in the rock beat but middle of the road cowboy and yodeling leaves me cold so sorry Jim Reeves but you'll have to go, pun intended.

The full sized replica of the Parthenon here in Nashville (who knew) took a good couple of hours to go around and all for $6, bargain. Well worth a Google if not a visit. As you can imagine I have lots more photos.

West face

Athena

East Entrance

The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum polarised my thinking on country music. I realised I really like the very early stuff and the more modern which brings in the rock beat but middle of the road cowboy and yodeling leaves me cold so sorry Jim Reeves but you'll have to go, pun intended.

The full sized replica of the Parthenon here in Nashville (who knew) took a good couple of hours to go around and all for $6, bargain. Well worth a Google if not a visit. As you can imagine I have lots more photos.

I caught a brilliant Texas band in the Tequilla Cowboy last night which was fortunate as I was refused entry to a number of establishments 'cos I couldn't prove I was over 21 - passport in my room. I am going down again tonight. Friday night  should be lively.

Nashville skyline

I didn't know 

This amused me because of the street it is on,

I think you have to be a certain age to remember

Lunch today was at the famous Loveless Cafe, waiting times for a table were one and a half hours so I took mine to go. The food was good but I wouldn't go out of my way for the experience, though it is near the terminus of the Natchez Trace so could fit in quite well.

Pigeon Forge and Dollywood tomorrow for four days, will I last out? More importantly, will the money?

Wow

Today started so calmly driving up the trace to Nashville, pleasant picnic on the way, hotel was ready early so I could check in, had time for a walk down town and book my ticket for tonight's Grand Old Opry, back to the hotel for a shower before getting up to the Opry in plenty of time for a snack before the performance. The show started with acts good and bad until the interval then got better and better until the last act Chris Janson came on and blew the place apart. Everyone left the place buzzing and I climbed into the car to drive back to the hotel, that's when the mayhem started. 
Driving at night down an eight lane highway I am unfamiliar with which has turn offs and slip roads both sides and the average speed up in the seventies, at one point I was in the second lane looking for my turn off when an eighteen wheeler undertook me doing at least 20 mph faster than I was.
By the time I got back to my hotel I was speechless and giggling with relief of still being alive.

So cheers everyone, I'm on my second already.

All the above part of the original Natchez trace that has been tarmaced (ish)

Arty photo of an outlook from the trace

Goodbye Memphis

Liver recovery day today after three nights on Beale Street, hiding away with Gatorade and salad in Mussel Shoals Alabama.
Beale Street memories:-
1. Duelling pianos at Silky O'Sullivans playing 'I'll Get By With A Little Help From My Friends' in the style of Joe Cocker and Kermit The Frog.
2. A young guy on lead guitar and vocals covering tracks from Lynyrd Skynyrd  to Prince, amazing.
3. Seeing a huge plate of food come out of the kitchen and think which fat ba***rd ordered that only for it to be put down in front of me.
4. Complimenting some guy for having the best looking woman in the room and not getting my head kicked in.
5. Constantly being asked for my ID.
Hell of an experience but you have to be selective far too many poor covers of classic Rock and Roll and Blues artists and I don't want to ever hear Big Bad Leroy Brown again.
A great find was the Flying Saucer with over 80 beers on tap, no real ales but still an accomplishment and they have an outlet in Nashville, Yeehah!
Another unexpectedly good experience was the River Museum on Mud Island, $10 for two interesting hours and a free return Monorail trip thrown in.
I am now all Elvised out, saw where he was born, lived and his grave, must admit I felt very sad looking at his grave, what a waste to die so young.
Memphis said goodbye with a bang, last night's thunderstorm knocked out the TV and the WiFi.

Graceland gates

Graceland posh front door

Back view

Uh-Huh

American roadkill is a lot less frequent but more interesting than ours, so far I haven't seen on dead fox, cat, badger or pheasant but two armadillos and a pig!

Harry, Marmalade and the Bunkie fan Chrystine.

Since leaving New Orleans I stayed in forgettable Lafayette Louisiana before arriving yesterday in Elvis's birthplace Tupelo. I met a very loud local couple in the hotel swimming pool and when I expressed a wish to dine at a lounge or such establishment that served alcohol and maybe live music, Kevin and Tina suggested JRs where they assured me I would be flavour of the month with the local girls who would want to teach me some country dancing and later accompany me back to my hotel which apparently is THE in hotel to stay on a Friday night. Needless to say I ducked out of that and their offer to accompany me and introduce me to their friends and when I saw the growlers emerging from the woodwork this morning at the hotel I had cause to congratulate myself.

I had a lightning tour of Tupelo this morning and even bought a kitchen knife - to cut up my watermelon - from Tupelo Hardware where Elvis bought his first guitar.

Sitting on Elvis's stoop, Jan would have loved it but she was here with me.

Elvis's house

First impressions of Memphis is that it is grubby and run down and the girl in tourist information just couldn't give a sh*t.

I spent a happy three hours in the rock and Soul Museum, mostly listening to all the tracks they make available on the audio tour and tonight I make my first foray into Beale Street.

The Trace

Back-road America is much more interesting than the Interstate. I got lost in Louisiana and a lovely lady in Buckie put me on the right track, gave me a map and a Buckie fan to keep me cool.
The Natchez Trace Parkway is a gem, 444 miles of deserted road through lovely countryside with no traffic lights or billboards, I got as far as Utica before turning off for the Vicksburg National Military Park, what an eye-opener that was. I took five hours to go 'round it and to be honest I could have taken two or three days. Tomorrow I rejoin the Trace up to see Elvis's birthplace in Tupelo.

Emeral Mound from the top

The original Trace

Leaving N'Orleans

Well yesterday was our goodbye to New Orleans, brill town, I am going back for more. We took Kay and Anthony to the airport then Keira headed for 8 days in Biloxi and I started my road trip with a first stop in Lafayette Louisiana, we both had to put up with torrential downpours but I sat one of them out in Yippee Yumyums with the best burger I have ever tasted.

Charlie helping Keira open her presents

Oops 

 Cooling off in Pat O'Brien's fountain

Me and Louis

I didn't spill any water Grandad

Schmoozing with the hunky neighbour

Birthday lunch at the Cochon Butcher

We actually met the guys who had built this memorial to the unknown slave.

New friend, Ignacio

Final group photo