Basilicata ramblings.

I think that TV companies must block book attractions to keep tourist out while they film. I have seen a documentary/travel programme about the churches cut into the Sassi caves in Matera and it looked lovely and peaceful. Now, bear in mind the season has not started yet but by 0930 the place was swamped by guided tours of clicking pink cattle blinding people with flash photography, I lasted about ten minutes then headed for the most interestingly named town on my map. Montescaglioso was lovely, it is a hilltop town and the old town is a maze where I got lost until I stumbled on a film crew shooting scenes for a film set in the fifties I would imagine by the old cars the had on set it was a pleasant cabaret to go with my lunch. The Alesidano club where I am staying is very Italian and the activities run all day until 11:30 pm. I saw what was happening when I checked in and asked to change my apartment which overlooked the entertainment amphitheater but I was assured that it would be quiet by 9 pm. Lies, lies and dammed lies the imbecillic racket went on for hours, I thought Italians were sophisticated but the cheered and clapped at what was really bad karaoke. I was quickly given an apartment well away from the action yesterday. The remainder of this week is going to be at slow pace, a little walking, panic tanning and shopping for wine and pasta before the journey home starts on Saturday.

More ferries.

Corfu, a nice place but you have to get away from the mass tourism that swamps a lot of the coast and Corfu Town is always full because there are two cruise ships in dock, as one leaves another arrives. i was lucky to find Villi and Linda's place it was lovely and quiet and spacious with the advantage of a patio and the amount of produce that they gave me was embarrassing, I left with lemons, home made wine and home made Rakki so look out I may need victims to taste it for me. I enjoyed getting up in the hills and meeting the real people but if you come to the coast the part I liked most was in the southwest between Messongi and including Petriti, which is mostly villa accommodation. I went back to Benitses for my last meal and was entertained by two of his caged birds, Elvis and Pavarotti. Yesterday I had a lazy day until I went for the ferry from Corfu to Igoumenitsa, the temperature had climbed to 30C so I became a shade seeker. In Igoumenitsa I went to a local taverna where I passed a pleasant couple of hours with a Canadian educated Greek historian Nicholas then it was time to check in, eventually the ferry left at 1am but fortunately armed with sleeping bag and pillow I found a vacant couch which I immediately bagsied. I think I managed five hours sleep but it was hot and sleeping in my clothes made it even hotter thank god I took wet wipes and toothbrush with me! I am going for a quick pizza tonight then bed.

Black bees and walnut cake.

The visit to the morning market in Corfu town was a failure, the traffic on Sunday had lulled me into thinking I could park the car just outside the centre, not a chance it was the Whacky Races with cars jammed in every parking space by half past nine. I investigated Gouvia marina where Odyseus Yachting also have a base, it is huge. I will be checking out possible mooring locations on the island with a view to sailing from here in the future. The coast north of there is heavily touristified so it was nice to get up in the hills to the supposedly restored Venitian village of Perithea, the only parts that have been restored are a couple of houses that are obviously holiday homes, a really lovely building that is now holiday lets and of course the four tavernas. Having said that it was good to wander around the village looking at the buildings and also visiting the 'bee man', he had over fifty hives in his garden and the bees were black, a first for me. I went fo a walk along a track that contoured the hills and when I saw the top of Mount Pantokrator above me I was tempted to climb but I don't think fitflops are the ideal footwear for such a task so I retired to the quietest taverna for walnut cake and coffee. I was listening to Jan's iPod on the way back Played through the car's sound system and il Divo's version of Amazing Grace with full bagpipes was on as I was threading my way through the traffic in town I certainly got some funny looks. Breakfast yesterday was Lena's eggs scrambled, I have never seen such deep yellow yolks even when I kept hens myself, she has also given me home made goats cheese and promises me goats milk tomorrow morning. The lump of cheese she gave me was huge, it is very mild and a bit like mozzarella it was good with my sausage Bolognaise. Last night I went out for dinner for the first time here, I couldn't face Corfu town and my local taverna was closed so I ended up in Benitses and went to the taverna of the same name which is in a line of four restaurants facing the sea. The owner Dimitris came and sat with me, his only customer. When I asked him why one of the restaurants was busy while the other three were empty he told me about the Pigeon Syndrome, the first table that gets settled attracts other pigeons which thinking about it is often the case. Myself I avoid the busier places because they get so loud unless of course they are full of locals then it is worth it because the food must be good. Zorba was played again.

Another ferry.

Another weather alarm clock yesterday, this time it was Thor throwing his thunderbolts about. The drive down to Igoumenitsa was through torrential rain but it started slowing down while we were on the ferry to Corfu and today we have sun, yay! I am now staying with a Corfiot family at the end of a track in the middle of nowhere. The apartment is the ground floor of their house which I think is actually their son's place but they need the money so rent it out in the summer. Villi tells me he is an unemployed agronomist but I think he may mean he normally does people's gardens and with the current crisis people cannot afford to get the gardener in. He is busy anyway he grows most of his own fruit and veg and also has chickens and turkeys. He doesn't waste his grapes on wine he turns them into grappa and I am now the proud possessor of a bottle to go with the lemons and eggs Lena his wife gave me. Lovely people. Yesterday it took me hours to find my new digs so I stayed put in the afternoon and had a few beers. Today I explored Corfu town, it seems a nice place with the warren of streets like a maze but it was full with two cruise liners on the jetty, one of which was the Oriana, so I went up to the castle to get away from the tourists. The forecast is good and I plan to explore the island and go to the morning market in town for fruit and veg etc, it might be a quiet week blogwise.

Down from the hills.

Yesterday I meandered down from the hills to the town/small city of Ioannnina, I was here by 11am so I parked up and tramped all around the walled city which is refreshingly uncluttered with shops selling tourist tat, there were a couple of shops providing basics for the locals and a restaurant and café. The citadel was at one time Ali Pasha's seraglio but is now the site of his tomb next to a restored mosque there is also a museum with an annex which you can visit for the princely sum of 2 euros. Lunch was a giros pitta, the chef told me that when I say pitta it sounds like pizza but then again he is American. He kept me amused with his take on the problems between Greece and the EU, apparently it was the Germans forcing Greece to take out loans and then having the audacity to want the money back. After the entertainment I visited the Archeology Museum which had some amazing articles on display, I could not believe the intricacy of the silverwork from over two thousand years ago. another surprise was the display of coins. There was a coin from Syracuse in Sicily which had the three legs of Man on it and I thought that was a Viking symbol, the other was a representation of the goddess Athene on which the Britannia on our coins must have been based and both of these coins were from around 25BC to 14AD. To cap the day I checked in to a very homely hotel and the food last night was a Greek version of chilli chicken with olives and sultanas which I do not normally like in hot food but it all went together so well. This morning the hammering rain woke me up, I resolved to not let is stop me from exploring I would put on my waterproof and go for it but my waterproof is still behind the cabin door on the boat, not the only thing I have left behind this trip! Anyway the visit to Dodoni went well, the rain slowed and I still had an umbrella in the car. Dodoni apparently was the site of Greece's oldest oracle 4000 years ago and I thought the original oracle was at Delphi, anyway by 1300 Zeus was speaking here too, so I stood under the sacred oak tree in his temple and asked him what direction my life will take when I grow up, all I heard was birdsong, goatbells and the patter of rain on my umbella. The site is well placed in a bowl between the mountains to the West and the hills to the North and East and there is an aura about the place which is hard to describe, the other feature is the very large theatre which is still in use, according to the blurb, in it's heyday it could seat 17,000 people, there was no one there to see me perform. This afternoon I caught the ferry across Lake Pamvotis to visit the small island which has six monasteries on it and I discovered three times as many stalls selling tourist junk, anyway the weather gods got me back for mocking Zeus. I am now in my cosy hotel room after a hot shower listening to the rain on the window. The forecast tomorrow is clearing then the following 9 days wall to wall sun which should make for a pleasant week in Corfu or Kerkyra in Greek, maybe that is a sign?

Back to basics.

After last night's indifferent 'Beef in red sauce' meal I decided to go back to basics tonight, the pork kebab and salad was absolutely brilliant. I am a man of simple tastes but I cannot remember a night in a restaurant in Greece when Zorba was not played at least once. A great exploring day today, I started of with. Walk to the local monastery which was built on a crag overlooking the gorge. The views again were spectacular, it seemed to me to be an ideal place for contemplation. There was the opportunity in the monastery church to light another candle to Jan and as I lit it the sun came out from behind the clouds so I know she is still with me. The rest of the day I spent driving up circuitous roads to visit remote villages. The scenery up here is too much I can't think of the correct superlative to describe it and there are surprises around every corner whether it is a spectacular view, a local looney in the middle of the road or a herd of cows looking for fresh grass, it certainly keeps you on your toes. Well I know I have only got a few weeks left so I have planned the trip home. I will be visiting a couple of friends en route as well as the Stelvio Pass so after leaving the far south of Italy on the 4th of June I should be home on Friday 10th, see you in chapel Peter.

Up in the hills.

I know we were spoiled with all the fantastic food we had whilst sailing but last night I had the worst meal of the trip so far at the Barrel restaurant in Nydri the food was not cooked/reheated properly and it had virtually immediate laxative effect. Take my tip, don't go there. Lunch today was Lidl rolls and ham picnic up in the mountains. I was planning to walk the Vikos gorge but I went out to look at it and it is fearsome, 1100 metres deep, that is the height of Snowdon. I was talking to a guide and he did say that although the distance through the gorge is only 12kms it takes around 8 hours because of the climbs and the rough ground. He also said not to do it solo. I will get some walks in but not the whole length of the gorge.

R&R in Nydri.

Nydri is an OK place to recover from a full on adventure break, it is very, very tourist orientated but there are shops to replace toiletries etc and a lady who is doing my laundry. I am taking it easy but I walked the town a couple of times yesterday and wound up the waiters in the restaurants by reading their menus then not going in but I had a pleasant relaxed meal in a taverna back from the waterfront. Today I went on the waterfall walk, it was interesting because the final 400 metres is into a gorge, however, it is a little farther than the guide books suggest, it takes about two hours there and back from the seafront. I also went for a tour of the island by car and found what could be an ideal lunch or overnight stop in the boat at Mikros Gialos, an inlet East of Syvota. Syvota itself, which we visited in 2014 was full with over 60 Sailing Holidays boats, today was changeover day. I popped around to Vassiliki but it is an unattractive concrete tourist resort aimed at windsurfers. So tomorrow I head north into the hills.

Three men in a boat.

I am on my own again in Nydri on the island of Lefkada, I dropped JB and Kevin off at the airport this morning. We had a great weeks sailing, probably the best we have had in the last twelve years. We had good winds most days and only one day off due to a front coming through that brought some rain with it. Our first stop was at Spartochori where we also started last time but thank goodness it was a lot calmer this time, the welcome and food were just as we remembered. Our next port of call was Fiscardo were we met another Kevin who was a yacht photographer (see sailing pics.com) and story teller, we had his whole life history in the short space of time we were there. Next stop was Sami where Stavros at the Faros tavern served up the best food so far but that was beaten again by the delicious stifado and roast lamb that we all shared at Nikos' taverna in Vathi on Ithaka. We stayed the extra day in Vathi and went to the same cafe on two days to be welcomed on day two like old friends by Betty (which apparently in Greece is short for Patricia?????), while there we also had a visit from the coastguard who inspected all the boar's safety gear. After a memorable 30 mile sail with Captain Kev on the helm we arrived at the immaculate Karnagio taverna in Vathi on Meganissi where the food went another step higher, the baked lamb was to die for. The owner, a super efficient Bulgarian called Alex told us that her nickname amongst the local Greeks is Hitler because of the high standards she demands from her employees. we also met Dougie McKenzie Iverson and his wife Jane who again gave us his life story mainly about sailing but the interesting side of his story is he owns the Thomas Wolsey pun in Ipswich which is not far from Keira and Kay, so Tom could well get a visit. Back in Paleros last night we caught the final between Saracens and Racing 92 in the Docks bar where the gorgeous Anna put Kev in his place by insisting that he was JB's dad. Our final meal was at the Dionysos restaurant run by a German lady named Sylvia and her Greek husband Myka, the food was good but not as amazing as what had gone before but the highlight of the day was when the waitress tried to teach us the Greek for cutlery which to our ears sounded like "my hairy Peroni" This blog is really just to remind us of what we got up to on the activity break 2016 because we found we had forgotten so much of what had happened on the previous trip.

Sailing and sailing.

Greece was on strike on Sunday so the Saturday night ferry was brought forward to 2pm but of course the Greek dockers wanted the extra days pay so the leaving time was delayed until 5pm so that we would arrive in Igoumenitsa at 2am. A Bulgarian family joined me at my table and talking to them passed the time on the long trip. I can recommend the Astoria Hotel in Igoumenitsa where I rested my weary head for all of 5 hours. After buying the provisions for the boat I met JB and Young Kevin at Preveza airport at midday and we went down to take over the boat in Paleros. So far we have been to Spartocheri on Meganissi, Fiskardo on Cephalonia, last night we got into Sami and today we are heading for Vathi on Ithaka. The weather has been great but rain is forecast for tomorrow. yesterday we had good winds and got the boat healing over and doing over 8 knots much to Kev's dismay, we have also had fun with anchor chains being crossed and other challenges. It is good to have company after three weeks on my own, I am coming to the conclusion that I enjoy the travelling more than the arrival and staying a week in one place.

Ramblings cut short.

Apparently there is going to be a strike in Greek ports on Sunday so my ferry will not be sailing at 9pm but now at 2pm which works for me now I can sleep in a proper bed rather than roughing it on an overnight ferry, excellent I will be able to greet the boys clean, polished and awake. Yesterday I did my final exploration, the weather has at last changed and the little white legs put in an appearance. The people over here seem to walk around with closed faces but engage them in conversation and they smile and open up especially out in the sticks but I suppose that applies to most parts of the world. Today's task was a slow admin session pottering around to get ready for next weeks activity break. I love a good potter. The fridge and larder are now empty so I will be dining at the local bistro tonight I just hope they have some real meat.

Further ramblings.

I have now explored the boot of Italy South of Lecce, I am not excited, a number of the small resorts have space for passing yachts and Castro could be worth a weekend visit but that is about it for me. I am going to try the local wines tomorrow apparently they have a good reputation but I was told this by a local chap so we will see also I will take some photos for the blog but also to show you what the area is like. I must admit I am looking forward to Greece for the kebabs and chops I have just about had enough pasta, pizza and paninis but I cannot fault the wine especially the huge range of good Chianti, if you ever get over here never, never, never drink the super cheap bottles in the supermarkets in fact you are better off buying the five litre plastic containers at least that won't rot your teeth or take the lining off your stomach.

Italian ramblings.

On my way down from the mountains I was passing Foggia when I caught a glimpse of a scantily clad young lady in the layby to my right, very nice I thought but a little further down the road another young lady in a skin tight purple dress and six inch heels was standing in another layby and this was at about midday, where these Layby Lils if so the police who were passing at the same time as me did not seem concerned. I was always under the impression that the Italians had a certain sense of style, now I know I am not known for my sartorial elegance but some of the sights I have seen over here are just amazing. I saw a very skinny young guy yesterday dressed all in black from pixie boots, skin-tight jeans and jacket and the biggest scarf you have ever seen wrapped around his neck topped by a shaved head with a tuft of hair left on top, he looked like a black ice-cream cone. The uniform for mutton just now is heeled pixie boots, black leggings, mini skirt and too tight top with OTT make-up and carefully teased out hair accompanied of course by the regulation huge sunglasses. Yesterday's exploring was cancelled due to pouring rain, so I stocked up with beer and wine at Lidl and read another book, fortunately it stopped raining at 5pm so I at least got out for a walk, I was starting to seize up with all this enforced relaxation. Today I caught the resort shuttle bus into Lecce and I was very glad I had, the traffic was mad and parking legally is impossible which probably explains why locals double park or park on pedestrian crossings etc, if I tried that I would get a ticket as I now know from experience. Lecce old town was interesting a little too baroque and full of tourists for me but after a couple of hours walking the streets I found a street cafe selling local craft beers to while away the time waiting for the shuttle back to the resort, a pleasant people watching spell.

Way down South.

The journey down from the hills on Saturday was very pleasant I think everyone was having a lie in, the hills and hairpins are now behind me, Puglia is a relatively flat and featureless province with long straight roads. My new accommodation leaves a lot to be desired but the one plus is it has the first sprung mattress since arriving in Europe, one of the problems here is limited WiFi so this could limit my blogging. The weather has also slowed me down along with yesterday's Mayday holiday but I plan to explore today.